Balinese

The Balinese Room

Galveston Sounds of Music

by Amy Edgerly

There is just something about Islands and music that seem to fit together. Maybe it is the image of a native sitting under a seaside coconut tree strumming a ukulele or maybe it is the whole “Jimmy Buffet thang” “wastin’ away in Margaritaville” or “cheeseburger in paradise…”

The venues each represent a unique facet of the Galveston music scene. These gems are not the only places on the island to enjoy live music, but they are all places that we have personally visited, and can confidently recommend to anyone looking for a memorable time in Galveston.

The Balinese Room 21st & Seawall

The Balinese Room is so distinctive in so many ways, that it’s difficult to know where to begin when describing it. Does one begin with its colorful rich history, with its colorfully unique architecture, its durability and longevity, its magical restorations, its eerie ghost stories, or its present-day magnetic appeal? Fortunately, I don’t have to know where to begin because the staff of the Balinese stands ready to regale their clientele with any story they might care to hear about this mystical structure.

The building, which is actually a pier jutting 600 feet out over the Gulf of Mexico, was first opened in 1923 as a Chinese restaurant, nightclub and illegal casino. In 1942 it joined the Maceo Brothers’ Galveston empire and opened as The Balinese Room.

Throughout the 40’s and 50’s, it showcased the biggest talent in the country, including Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope, Jane Russell, George Burns, Duke Ellington, Jayne Mansfield, Mel Torme, Jack Benny, Sophie Tucker, Guy Lombardo, and the list goes on. It even claims to be the birthplace of the Margarita, which was invented and named for Peggy Lee during one of her performance stints. While diners, drinkers and dancers enjoyed the best music of the time in the South Seas Showroom, high rollers like Howard Hughes and Diamond Jim West enjoyed the illegal gambling in the Casino Room at the far end of the pier.

For years, local law enforcement turned the other way, but the Texas Rangers would frequently attempt to raid the casino. Those attempts failed due to the finely choreographed “dash and stash” which employees and gamblers alike took part in once the warning buzzer sounded, they had time to hide everything due to the long distance the Rangers had to travel from the entrance of the Balinese to the casino at the end. One can only imagine the beauty of that intricate ballet being performed. (Or was it more like the Keystone Kops??)

In the late 50’s the Balinese was in its heydey, but a new sheriff in town brought about its downfall. Finally wise to the machinations of the legendary establishment, undercover agents were placed in the casino beforehand and the raid at last succeeded. The Balinese as it was then known, closed its doors.

For almost 40 years the structure was battered by hurricanes and suffered from neglect.

That was until 2002 when a new owner, Scott Arnold, re-opened its doors and began the modern day chapter in the Balinese’s biography. The Southeast Asian architectural influence of the original structure is again apparent from one end to the other, both inside and out. What was broken has been repaired, what was dusty has been polished, what was neglected has been restored and what was old is now new again.

These days you can stop by the Balinese any day during the week and enjoy the company of friendly bartenders and locals. You will enjoy their stories of ghostly encounters in the course of a day’s work. The South Seas Showroom is open Friday and Saturday nights with live music of all genres. The Casino bar, which was the original illegal casino, is also open weekends with a dance club, comedy shows and other special events. While zoot suits and evening gowns are no longer required attire, the charm and elegance of the post-war era is alive and well at the Balinese, and all are welcome to enjoy it. For complete music and event schedules, visit www.Balineseroom.net.