Bandera

Bandera Loop

by Larry Gore

The Bandera – Leakey Loop Ride

Name of Trip: Bandera – Leakey Loop Ride Distance: 110 Miles: Time: About 4 hours – a little more if you love taking photographs.

Route: Bandera – Tarpley – Utopia – Leakey – Vanderpool – Bandera.

Highlights: White limestone cliffs form distinctive backdrops to the cypress-lined banks of spring fed crystal clear rivers. The scenic views are awesome as you enjoy the hills, curves and “twisties”.

Information Resources: Bandera – Tarpley – Utopia – Leakey – Vanderpool – Bandera. “The Cowboy Capital of the World”, Bandera is like a scene from an old Western. You keep expecting gunfire to erupt and see cowboys fall from roofs into horse watering troughs. Not today though – must be a crowd of tame tourists in town.

Bandera is one of the main gateways to the Texas Hill Country. Take Hwy 470 from Bandera through Tarpley and Utopia and then take 1050 to Leakey. It is interesting to note that the estimated travel time Mapquest gives for this 58 mile stretch is 3 hours and 26 minutes.

This route is 58 miles of short choppy hills and blind curves – the kind where you crest a small hill and the road suddenly makes a sharp turn. The kind of road that makes life real interesting – if you stay very alert. One miscalculation here and you will find out how far from emergency medical services you really are.

In Leakey be sure to visit the Frio Canyon Bike Stop – don’t worry you can’t miss it. The owners are great people and make all visitors feel welcome. This place is a treasure trove of information about where to ride and what to see and you can even buy Hill Country maps that have an amazing amount of detail and information. Frio Canyon Bike Stop isn’t a shop, but they do carry a few parts that might help you get by in an emergency. Side Trip – Leakey – Camp Wood Loop. Approximately 90 miles. Take Hwy 337 West 21 miles to Camp Wood, then North on Hwy 335 about 28 miles to Hwy 41. Turn right on Hwy 41 for 10 miles then South on Hwy 336 for 27 miles brings you back into Leakey. The southern half of this loop is very scenic and offers more great motorcycle riding, the northern half of the loop is still hilly with long gentle curves. This is the very edge of the Hill Country from here the type of terrain to the West begins to change into more of a desert environment.

Leakey – Vanderpool: Hwy 337 East out of Leakey. A couple of miles will bring you to a long, steep grade to your left and then you are smack in the middle of outstanding riding. The next 15 or 16 miles are truly exciting and incredibly beautiful. Stop often and admire the scenery – there are many places you can safely pull off and stop. The riding is awesome. Lean into the curves, roll out of them and enjoy seeing just what you and your bike can (safely) do. Don’t get careless, they fish careless bikers out of these ravines on a regular basis.

This 16 mile run along Route 337 heading East out of Leakey is probably one of the most intense – and scenic – stretches of highway in Texas. We stopped at the top of the 1st major hill and looked back across the valley. Below us was a farm complete with a slow-moving stream, a huge natural reflecting pond and barns, fences, farm implements and a whole herd of absolutely cute goats. We wondered if the owner of the property had any idea of the impact that the scene has on others. From this first great view things only got better for the next 16 – seemed like a lot further – miles. Hairpin turns, switchbacks, steep inclines, sheer drop-offs beside the road and, occasionally, a house or vacation cottage tucked away on a hillside or hidden in a valley.

The wildflowers were in full bloom, the crystal clear air separated the distant mountains with varying shades of blue.

Speed? You want to talk speed! Speed is so out of place with the beauty of this area that it seems almost irreverent. Instead of making a race of it, you might find it more enjoyable to take your time, relax and thoroughly enjoy the incredible new view every time you round another curve. In one stretch of 337 riding East out of Leakey, TX we took over two hours to make 15 miles. Even at that pace we were sad when that part of the trip ended. We did find that we could double our pleasure by riding the same route in the opposite direction – it gave an entirely new perspective on the scenery and allowed us to see things that we missed the first time.

Tip: They did not build scenic lookout points, so be careful stopping alongside the road that you and your bike will be clearly visible to other vehicles that might come around the curves.

A final stop on 337 at a picnic area on the last high point and a final view of this stretch of Texas. The road descends rapidly as you connect up with Hwy 187.

The Lost Maples Country Store (gas station) is at the intersection of Hwy 337 and Hwy 187. We noticed the gas pumps but, being city boys, thought we would gas up at the next intersection – after all we had gassed up the night before on the way to Leakey. Poor decisions like this can be a killer mistake in this country. Not only are gas stations few and very far between but your gas mileage will drop significantly when you are riding up and down these hills. Once we left the 337/187 intersection we did not see another gas station, or store of any type, until we got to Medina, Texas. The final 15 miles into Medina were very nerve-wracking as we watched our odometer roll way past the point at which we normally need gas.

Vanderpool – Medina. At the junction of 337 and 187 go south for about a mile and then left (East) on 337. Not as “wild” as the Leakey to Vanderpool stretch but still exciting. There are plenty of curves and some long, steep grades. Watch for the ranch (Paradise Valley) on your right. Set against a backdrop of sheer rock, the tranquility of the large lake is framed by the hills and valleys. This is a dream setting.

Medina – Bandera – Relatively flat country with plenty of curves as the road follows a path along the banks of the Medina River. Just before you get to Bandera there is a roadside park/picnic area on your left. This is a good place to stop for a picnic or a swim in the river. There is easy access to and from the water at this location. If you happen to be staying at the Twin Elm Ranch this is the place they bring you to tube back to the Ranch.

Bandera – “The Cowboy Capital of The World”. Plan on spending some time in Bandera.

Bulls and Broncos. Real rodeos with real working cowboys are held weekly during the warmer months at the Twin Elm Ranch. The event draws not only the tourists but many locals as well. We guarantee you will have a great time watching these cowboys and cowgirls work.

Blues, Beans, BBQ and Breakfast. Although Bandera is a small town they have a lot to choose from in live music. Almost every bar, dancehall and honky-tonk features live music with a wide range from C & W to The Blues. Speaking of The Blues, a visit Arkey Blues is a must for any visitor to Bandera.

This is BBQ country and there are several choice places to get your fill of BBQ and beans. The OST Restaurant is a great place for any meal but breakfast there is extra special – be careful though, they serve you so much food you might “hurt yo’ self”.

Across the street from the OST is the old General Store complete with an old fashioned soda fountain and some of the best real milkshakes you will ever find.

Guest Ranches. The Bandera area is where the “dude ranch” was invented and they know how to do it right. Some are working ranches that accept guests and some are mega-complexes designed to pamper your every whim. In all cases you can enjoy horseback riding, campfires, hiking or just kicking back and doing nothing.

Round out your stay in Bandera with a visit to the Frontier Times Museum or browsing any of the quaint little shops that offer everything from turquoise to turtle necks.

Bandera to Kerrville. The best (most fun to ride) route back to Kerrville is to back track on Hwy 16 through Medina. From Medina to Kerrville Hwy 16 offers lots of tight curves, hills and great scenery. If you would rather take a slightly tamer route follow Hwy 173 from Bandera back to Kerrville. Either way, by time you get back to your hotel room you will know that you have put in a full day of riding.

Vanderpool to Hunt –

Ride the rolling hills, visit the Lost Maples State Park, enjoy a vintage motorcycle museum (irregular hours) photograph the Guadalupe River, see exotic animals in the many ranches and be glad that Hunt has a gas station.

“Along the River Road” Hunt West on 1340 to Hwy 41 –Peaceful is the only way to describe this road. There are 8 or 10 low water crossings that offer spectacular chances to stop and relax or to get some outstanding photographs. As you leave Hunt you will pass many resorts built on the banks of the Guadalupe River. You will notice many places (River Resort is a good example) where the river has been dammed with a low dam to create wide, beautiful pools for people to fish, play, swim, wade or just relax with a good book. About half way to Hwy 41 the hills get a little higher, the curves tighter and views of the river less frequent but the riding is still great.

At Hwy 1340 and Hwy 41 East on Hwy 41 to Mountain Home. You will leave the river behind and get on some really smooth roads. The leg of the trip will take you past the historic YO Ranch, (555-555-5555) one of the largest and oldest in the area.

At Hwy 1340 and Hwy 41 West to Hwy 83 then South to Leakey. Hwy 41 and the first few miles of Hwy 83 are very comfortable, but uneventful riding. You are heading straight into the Texas Hill Country but you don’t see it coming because the hills don’t stick up from the approaching land. Rather the valleys begin to “drop away” quite rapidly from what almost appears to be a smooth horizon. Suddenly you ride around a bend or over a hill and gasp in surprise at the majesty of the hills before you. As you enter the Hill Country watch for a scenic overlook on your left. This is a great view of the valley, the Rio Frio river below and the hills fading blue in the distance.

Bandera provides easy access to some of the best riding roads in the Hill Country and is a fun place to stay. After a day of hard riding the entertainment choices are the best in this area. www.BanderaCowboyCapital.com.

“The Cowboy Capital of the World” – Rodeos are held at least twice weekly from Memorial Day through Labor Day. The scenic Medina River cuts right through town providing a great views and, for many of the local motels, the peaceful sounds of

From chicken-fried steak to barbecue you will find choices in Bandera. But for breakfast, the OST Restaurant is a must. Most of the bars and dance halls feature live music, be sure to visit the famous Arkey Blues.

This area is home to many guest ranches – the whole idea of a “dude ranch” was started in the Bandera area. These guest ranches range from the fabulous to the rustic. The biker-friendly Twin Elm Guest Ranch. is located on the banks of the Medina River. The Twin Elm is home to real Rodeos during the summer months. If you are here to ride your motorcycle ask about rooms priced without the normal all-inclusive meals, horse back riding and river tubing. 1-888-567-3049.

The River Front Motel 1-800-870-5671, is located at the edge of town just across the park from the Medina River. The cabins are clean, comfortable and affordable.